Northern Italy, the Dolomites, Slovenia, and Istrian Peninsula

August 14 to August 30, 2024

Pre Planning

Ever since our trip to Switzerland and Italy in 2021, my wife and I had been dreaming of two things: the feel of Italy and the dramatic rise of the Alps. So this time, it made perfect sense to fly back into Milan, the same airport we left from on that last trip, and pick up where we left off.

The plan was to head east to Lake Garda and Verona, then into the Dolomites, hiking and eating our way from west to east. From there, we’d cross into Slovenia, base ourselves somewhere under Triglav, and explore the Julian Alps. After that, we’d make our way to the coast, stopping in Ljubljana before reaching the old Venetian port of Piran. From there, we’d day trip into Croatia’s Istrian Peninsula, visit hill towns, caves, and coastal cities, then fly out of Venice.

One theme that ran quietly through the trip was World War I. Much of our route followed what had once been the front line between Italy and Austria. When you’re standing in those mountains, it's wild to imagine artillery booming from ridge to ridge, and soldiers camped out in what are now hiking trails.

August 14: JFK to Milan

We flew out of JFK. Strangely enough, it was cheaper to rent a car one-way from Pittsfield and return it at the airport than it was to drive and park our own car. So we rented one. I picked the manager’s special because it was the cheapest option and lucked out, it was a Mercedes. We drove to JFK, dropped it off, and made our way to the gate for our overnight flight.

August 15: Arrival in Italy – Sirmione, Lake Garda

We landed at Milan Malpensa (MXP), grabbed our rental car, and headed straight to Sirmione, our first base. We picked it because it’s close to the airport, sits on a beautiful peninsula on Lake Garda, and has a charming old town with Roman ruins, a castle, and thermal spas. It’s also only an hour from Verona, which was high on our list.

We had no idea when we planned it, but we had arrived on the Feast of the Assumption, a major holiday in Italy. That meant traffic was heavy, and cars weren’t allowed inside the old town. For that day only, we had to park outside the walls and take a shuttle to the hotel.

Once we checked in, our goal was to stay awake until the evening to fight off jet lag. We headed out to explore. The village was packed with holiday crowds, but it was lively and beautiful. We hopped on the little tourist train (Trenino) that loops to the northern beaches. The rocky shore was cool to see but slippery and pretty crowded, so we didn’t stay long.

Instead, we walked to the Grotte di Catullo, the ruins of an old Roman villa that sits above the lake. The ruins were sprawling and quiet, with views out over the water. Moments like that always hit me, how old everything is, and how short American history feels by comparison.

After that, we wandered the narrow streets of the old town, grabbed our first gelato of the trip, and sat in front of Scaliger Castle while we ate it. Eventually, we found a pizza place for dinner, and by then we were crashing hard. We went to bed early, completely wiped.

In the middle of the night, we were woken up by fireworks. It was still the Assumption holiday, and the whole town seemed to be celebrating. We were half-asleep, but smiling. It felt like the perfect welcome to our trip.

August 16: Verona + Thermal Spa in Sirmione

We shook off the jet lag and got a solid start on the day. The plan was to spend it in Verona and make it back to Sirmione for an evening at the thermal spa. We drove an hour and parked near Piazza Bra, then set out on foot into the fair city of Verona.

We passed the Arena, walked down Via Giuseppe Mazzini, and landed in Piazza delle Erbe. We had Verona Cards, which gave us access to a bunch of the sites, so we kicked things off by climbing the Torre dei Lamberti. The views were incredible, and the breeze up top felt great. Afterward, we wandered through the Galleria d'Arte Moderna. The art was beautiful, but honestly, the air conditioning after that climb might’ve been the real highlight.

We wound our way through the city, stopping for gelato, Piazza dei Signori, and a quick look at Juliet’s House. We didn’t linger, just long enough to snap a photo of a stranger on the balcony and promise we’d say it was Juliet.

The Basilica di Santa Anastasia looked impressive from the outside, but we decided to go inside the Duomo instead. It’s a modest but elegant cathedral with a great archaeological section where you can see Roman ruins beneath the floors. From there, we crossed the river and took the funicular up to Castel San Pietro. At the top, we had one of those “can you believe we’re here?” moments.

We walked back through town, checked out the Arena one last time, and drove back to Sirmione. After a shower and quick reset, we headed to Aquaria Thermal Spa. We had massage reservations, which came with access to the lakeside thermal pools. It was amazing. Exactly what we needed after the last couple of days. We stayed through the sunset with wine and a charcuterie board, floating in warm water as the lake turned gold.

August 17: Into the Dolomites via Bolzano

We checked out of Sirmione and ended up behind a funeral procession on our way out. It was quiet and slow, but strangely beautiful. Bells echoed through the narrow streets, the sun hit the old stone buildings just right, and for a moment everything felt still.

Then we hit the highway and drove north. The landscape changed fast. One moment we were in the lowlands, the next we were surrounded by mountains and Tyrolean rooftops. Bolzano made it clear we weren’t in southern Italy anymore. The city square, Waltherplatz, was full of Austrian influence.

We came to see Ötzi the Iceman at the South Tyrol Archaeological Museum. You don’t just learn about him, you see the actual mummy. The fact that he was murdered over 5,000 years ago and preserved in ice still blows my mind.

After exploring Bolzano, we drove to our next base in Chiusa (Klausen). After checking in and catching our breath, we decided not to waste the day. We headed to Santa Maddalena and did a short hike to that iconic viewpoint with the tiny church and the Odle peaks behind it. The scene was stunning. We took photos for a French couple, then got hit with a perfect little rainbow on the way back. Dinner that night at Torgglkeller was one of the best of the trip. Dumplings and pork ribs. Absolute joy.

August 18: Seceda and Monastero di Sabiona

We spent the morning hiking along the Seceda ridgeline. We took the cable car up from Ortisei, got hot chocolate at the rifugio, and took in the view. When it started to rain, we headed back down.

The sun came out later, so we explored Klausen. It’s a beautiful little village with the Monastero di Sabiona sitting on a hill above it. From behind our hotel, we hiked up the stone steps to the top. It was steep but manageable. The monastery buildings were peaceful and old, and the views of the vertical vineyards through the valleys was inspirational.

August 19: E-biking Alpe di Siusi

We rented e-bikes and rode all over Alpe di Siusi. The views were wide open and breath taking. Green meadows, dramatic peaks, and cows with bells just wandering around. It felt like we had ascended to another world, and you could take the adventure in any direction. After all the research, seeing the Schlern, Sassopiatto and Sassolungo up close was actualizing, not to mention the views north and east across the valleys and neighboring peaks, it was a dream come true. We stopped at a rifugio for lunch. The spätzle and polenta were delicious and the hearty meal was the perfect fuel to continue the ride. On the way back, we stopped in Kastelruth, a postcard-perfect alpine town, and walked around before heading home.

August 20: Cinque Torri & Arrival at Tre Croci

We rented e-bikes and rode all over Alpe di Siusi. The views were wide open and breath taking. Green meadows, dramatic peaks, and cows with bells just wandering around. It felt like we had ascended to another world, and you could take the adventure in any direction. After all the research, seeing the Schlern, Sassopiatto and Sassolungo up close was actualizing, not to mention the views north and east across the valleys and neighboring peaks, it was a dream come true. We stopped at a rifugio for lunch. The spätzle and polenta were delicious and the hearty meal was the perfect fuel to continue the ride. On the way back, we stopped in Kastelruth, a postcard-perfect alpine town, and walked around before heading home.

August 21: Lago di Sorapis

We got up early to beat the crowds to Lago di Sorapis, one of those Instagram-famous hikes that’s way harder than people think. It’s about 8 miles round trip, no bathrooms, and limited parking. But we planned well, and it paid off. The hike itself was a bit challenging and technical at times, but we had be training for these hikes all year. The lake is a surreal milky turquoise, ringed by peaks. We could even see Tre Cime in the distance. Being able to accomplish this hike was such an incredible reward for all the preparation. On our way out it became clear how overcrowded this hike gets. A queue had formed that extended over a mile, and places where the trail was a narrow ledge were actually quite risky to traverse. Over hearing some conversations in the queue, people drove all the way up from Venice that morning, which is a 3 hour drive, and they were questioning whether they should just head back to Venice without finishing the hike. Insanity.

We finished early, got some rest, then went over to Lake Misurina in the evening for a sunset stroll and dinner.

August 22: Tre Cime + Cadini di Misurina

We got to Rifugio Auronzo early to grab parking, had breakfast there, and started our hike to Cadini di Misurina. The clouds were too thick to see anything, it was even hard to keep track of the trail. It was a little disheartening, but we decided to head over to begin the hike around Tre Cime anyway. The full loop around Tre Cime di Lavaredo is one of the most iconic spots in the Dolomites, and honestly, it lived up to every bit of the hype. As we walked, the clouds began to break. The mist drifting around the peaks made it feel more magical than if it had been clear. The views were absolutely unreal. These three jagged limestone peaks shoot straight up from the landscape, like ancient towers carved by giants. The trail took us all the way around them, giving us every possible angle. On the south side, we hiked below the towers through a wide open grass field scattered with massive limestone chunks. It felt surreal—like we were walking through some lost world.

What made it even more powerful was realizing this place was once a World War I battlefield. There are bunkers, tunnels, and remnants all along the trail, and it really hits you just how brutal it must’ve been for soldiers up here. WE took a moment to really appreciate Monte Paterno, where Innerkofler, the famous Austrian mountaineer turned soldier, died in combat. Standing there, it was hard to imagine the mix of natural beauty and violent history that defines this region.

We decided not to push all the way to Innerkofler, but we did loop the valley and stop at Rifugio Malga Langalm for espresso with a front-row view of the towers. Later in the afternoon, I ran back out to Cadini di Misurina for one more look. The clouds had lifted a little, but the peaks were still playing hide and seek. Another reason to come back.

August 23: Into Slovenia – Mangart and Bovec

We said goodbye to the Dolomites and drove east, stopping in Tolmezzo for snacks. We passed Lago del Predil and were stunned by how pretty and quiet the area was. Definitely somewhere worth returning to. Crossing the border into Slovenia, the view of Triglav National Park hit us right away. We drove up the narrow winding road to Mangart Saddle and hiked around up top, standing between two countries. We had a picnic before heading down into the Soča Valley and on to Bovec. That evening, we wandered the village, had a great dinner, and sat in the minimally lit square, listening to people laugh and clink glasses on a warm summer night.

August 24: Soča River + Kolovrat WWI Site

We kayaked the Soča River in the morning. The water was that unreal emerald blue and freezing cold, even in August. But with wetsuits, falling in was fun. We drifted past waterfalls and towering peaks, with Triglav watching over us. Back in Bovec, we shopped for gifts and grabbed some gelato. In the afternoon, we drove over to Kobarid for the WW1 museum there. Kobarid (Caporetto in Italian) was the site of a huge German victory over Italy and is known as one of Italy’s worst defeats. This defear pushed the front lines of the war just outside of Venice. The museum here highlights the history and life of soldiers on the Insonzo (Now Soca River) Front. We sat in on a German-language presentation about the Battle of Caporetto and, thanks to maps and visuals, followed most of it. Later we drove out to Kolovrat Ridge to see the restored trenches. After everything we’d learned, it was chilling. You could see exactly how it played out. The artillery, the gas shells, the sudden overrun. Being there made the history feel very real.

8/25/24: Vršič Pass & Bled Castle

We checked out of Bovec and started the drive through the Vršič Pass, stopping at a few spots along the way. First was the Great Soča Gorge. That emerald river still hadn’t lost its wow factor. It cuts through a narrow channel in a thick forest and spills out into a slower pool that makes for a popular swimming hole. We hung out for a while, dipped our feet in the freezing water, and watched some brave people cliff-jumping. After that, we continued climbing toward the pass and stopped at the Triglav National Park Visitor Center for pizza. A little further up the road, we did a short hike that gave views on both sides of the mountain range, looking toward Austria and Italy. There’s a natural rock face that looks like a woman’s face, with a local legend called “The Pagan Girl” that goes with it. We also saw a WWI anti-aircraft bunker, one of the first of its kind. When we got back to the car, we realized we were lucky because a herd of sheep had completely surrounded other parked cars for shade. From there we headed to Slovenia’s big tourist spot, Lake Bled. After checking into our hotel, we went up to the castle that overlooks the lake. It’s definitely scenic, but the exhibits inside were kind of simple. We arrived late anyway and a lot of it was already closing. That was fine because we were tired, so we had dinner and called it a night.

8/26/24: Lake Bled

The lake was glassy and still in the morning, with that gradient blue hue that looks fake until you’re standing there. We took a traditional Pletna boat out to the island and visited the Church of the Assumption. We rang the bell and climbed the tower, then returned to shore and hiked up to the classic viewpoint where you can see the island and the castle in one frame. After that, we drove over to Vintgar Gorge. It was beautiful but something I missed in planning was that the boardwalk hike is one-way and you have to walk 3 or so miles back. After everything else we’d done on this trip, we were totally wiped. We grabbed McDonald’s and brought it back to the hotel room, which felt amazing. Later we checked out the hotel’s pools and saunas, which were exactly what we needed.

Honestly, Lake Bled felt kind of overhyped and overcrowded. This was one of the only “what ifs” of the trip. What if we had stayed in Lake Bohinj instead? It's known to be just as beautiful, but with fewer crowds. Even just spending more time in Bovec could’ve been a better choice. That area had its own gorges, hikes, and WWI history. We mostly picked Bled for logistical reasons, and it does have nice attractions, but they’re a bit too touristy and overpriced. Food for thought and reasons to return.

8/27/24: Ljubljana, Predjama, and Piran

We left Bled and headed to Ljubljana. It was raining and our energy was a little low. We still explored the castle, enjoyed the tower views and a few exhibits, but most of the rooms were kind of basic. Afterward, we wandered the old town, which was more charming and lively. As far as capital cities go, this was a small but personable one. We bought some honey, and saw the Triple Bridge and the pink Franciscan Church, it was a nice stop.

From Ljubljana, we drove south toward the coast, stopping at Predjama Castle along the way. This place was much more our speed. Built dramatically into the side of a sheer cliff, the castle looked like something out of a fantasy novel. Its architecture felt raw and powerful. Walking through its winding corridors and cave-like passages gave a real sense of what life might’ve been like for the people who once lived and fought there. After the more polished, crowded stops earlier in the day, it felt amazing to be back in the quiet countryside, surrounded by rolling hills and forests. We felt grounded again.

We continued on to our last base of the trip, Piran. The Venetian influence was everywhere. Tartini Square was alive with music and restaurants. We climbed the bell tower for views over the rooftops and the Adriatic. Then we walked across town and climbed the city walls just in time for sunset. The sky turned a fiery orange-pink, and sailboats dotted the water. It felt like we’d entered a different world from where we’d been the past two weeks.

8/28/24: Pula and Rovinj

We took a day trip into Croatia’s Istrian Peninsula, first to Pula. The Roman arena was super well preserved, and we enjoyed strolling the old town, seeing the Arch of the Sergii and Temple of Augustus, and popping into a few shops. From there we drove to Rovinj. The colorful houses, narrow cobbled streets, and paths that led straight into the sea gave the town a storybook feel. We swam at a rocky beach and then returned to Piran for yet another gorgeous sunset, joining the crowd of people who had come to the shoreline to soak it all in.

8/29/24: Škocjan Cave and Motovun

Our last full day started with a tour of Škocjan Caves. They were absolutely world-class. The formations were incredible, and the guide gave great historical background on the early explorers who first mapped the caves. After that, we headed back into Croatia to explore the Istrian hill towns. We spent most of our time in Motovun. We had lunch featuring truffle dishes, since the area is known for them. While we were eating, a sudden thunderstorm rolled in, and we had to move inside. When it slowed, we continued exploring the narrow stone alleys. At one point we took shelter inside the Church of St. Stephen. We were completely alone, just listening to the thunder and sitting in the warm stillness of the church. It was one of those quiet, powerful moments that sticks with you. That evening, we watched our final sunset in Piran from our balcony while eating pizza and chocolate.